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Palace On Wheels -
Romance of The Rail
The royal families travelled in style -
it came naturally to them. Which is why
their saloons were so luxurious. They were
wood-panelled, had separate bedrooms, dining
rooms, libraries, lounges, and formal
drawing rooms. They had changing rooms and
luxurious bathrooms. Attendants travelled in
separate coaches and catered to their every
choice: whether meals, or services.
Because it was not a single train, each
coach was different, as were the trappings.
This lent it a quaint charm, and visitors
could be seen leaping from their coaches
(the train could not be vestibuled since the
carriages were old) at stations at night, to
go into different carriages and spend time
there, experiencing their regal, but
romantic aura. The meals came from an
attached dining car, and were served in a
restaurant on wheels. There was a charming
library and bar. And attendants in full
regalia stayed up odd hours and times to be
able to serve passengers on the royal yatra
late into the night, and from very early in
the morning. The train began its week-ling
tour of Rajasthan from Delhi, and ended it
in the capital too. Passengers could take
the entire tour, or any part of it. By
night, they gathered in the train to rest,
relax, make new friends, converse, dine and
sleep. And every morning the train world
arrive at a new destination, a new princely
city, to a new welcome, a new regal
ambience, but a fittingly royal experience.
Because these carriages were old, it was
felt that they could not continue
indefinitely, but the package had been so
popular that pulling it out was simply not
an answer. Instead, a new train was
recreated in the same flavour, though it now
had inbuilt advantages such as vestibuling
and air-conditioning. In all other ways, it
was a faithful copy of the original.
Carpeted corridors, a comfortable lounge and
a more spacious dining room added to its
amenities. It proved such a good copy that
most visitors could not make out that it
was, in fact, not the original Palace on
Wheels.
By now, of course, other things were
changing. Though the new train had been
developed on the original metre gauge
tracks, most inter-city tracks had been
changed to broad gauge. It was clearly time
to phase out the new Palace on Wheels. But
it was a smart product: instead of wasting
it the Ministry of Railways decided to use
it on a different route, and so The Royal
Orient was created, a journey that begins
from Delhi, includes a bit of Rajasthan, but
spends much of its time chugging through the
neighbouring state of Gujarat.
But, clearly, it was time for a still
newer Palace on Wheels.
And what a train it is! Even the original
could not have been as luxurious, or as
magnificent. It may not be historic, but it
wears the patina of history lightly, its
inspiration clearly the past. Had the
maharajas still be able to, it is just such
a train they would have ordered.
It stands on its tracks, a gleaming,
sealed carriage, every bit as royal as the
original, and perhaps more. The
air-conditioning works silently, creating a
space where only the excitement of the
history of the Rajput kingdoms permeates
through, cleverly captured in contemporary
mode. In all, there are fourteen saloons,
each equipped with two twin-bedded and two
double-bedded chambers, with attached baths
that have been thoughtfully provided, sofas
to sink into, strategically placed lights to
read by wonderfully appointed beds with
comfortable furnishings, inbuilt wardrobes
for the storage of one's clothes and bags,
and huge plate glass windows to watch the
countryside roll past.
Outside the bedrooms, each coach also has a
seating lounge where passengers can get
together, just sit, watch the cities as they
glide past outside the windows, or enjoy a
quiet cup of tea. An attached pantry with
each saloon helps provide beverages and
refreshments to the accompaniment of
soothing, piped music. Should you seed
company, there is the comfortable bar cum
lounge were you relax over your favourite
drink, burrow in a book, or converse with
co-passengers. Attached to it are two
restaurant cars, Maharaja and Maharani
respectively, with opulently draped
curtains, exquisitely crafted lights, and
table settings that world do a modern city
restaurant proud. Here, accompanying chefs
serve up a choice of Indian, including
Rajasthani, Continental, and even Chinese
cuisines that are a feast for the palett.
The train chugs out of Delhi Cantonment
on a week-long run through Rajasthan every
Wednesday night, with a trip also inbuilt to
Agra and the Taj Mahal. Turban-wearing
attendants take over from the moment you
arrive at the platform, assigning you your
coupes, and detailing all the facilities
that are on board. The train moves by night,
and arrives each morning at a new
destination, where new experiences await
you. If you are an early riser, you will see
the sun rise over the horizon of the desert,
a golden orb that flames in pastel colours
before it ignites into brilliant orange as
it mounts higher. So it has done for
millions of years, and so it has been
watched on its journey for thousands of them
by the residents of the desert: Suryavanshi
and Chandravanshi, moon- incredible how easy
it is to believe it all possible! |
